Awuzange ucinge ukuba yintoni ekhoyo kwifrithi yakho oyithandayo! Kuwe kuya kumangaliswa ukuba ufunde ukuba ekuqaleni kwezinye izithako zomgubo, ngaphambi kokucubungula nokuxubana nezinye iifrimu, zivelisa iphunga elimnandi.
Umntu uye wasebenzisa iziqhumiso kwiindawo ezahlukahlukeneyo ngokweminyaka, umzekelo, ukugubungela oothixo, ukuphucula iphunga eligumbini, kwaye kwi-Middle Ages yakha i-perfume yokuqala ukuguqula umqubu womzimba ongatshwanga.
Namhlanje isiqhumiso siyinxalenye ebalulekileyo yendoda yanamhlanje. Iimimoya zisetyenziselwa ukuzisa umfanekiso wazo into ethile, imfihlelo kunye nokuphela. Abaninzi bayazi ukuba zeziphi izithako ezingasetyenziselwa ukudala iphunga elimnandi.
I-musk ye-musk deer kunye ne-civet
Uye wambona kaninzi ukuba kwimoya yakho isithako se-musk sichazwa, kwaye uyayazi, njengento ephosakeleyo, eqhuba ukuphosa. Kodwa kunokukuxhalabisa ukuba i-musk yinto ephilileyo, ephosakeleyo eyenziwa kwiintlanzi zezilwanyana ze-musk, ikakhulukazi kwi-reindeer, ukukhanga abantu abesini esahlukileyo. Kodwa sele sele idlulileyo kwiminyaka eyi-1000 edlulileyo, i-perfume ifumene ukuba i-musk inokuphucula umnikelo wokuqhumisa kunye nokudlala emzimbeni womntu ngamnye ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo.
Ngoko, i-perfumery yayisetyenziselwa i-musk ye-animal musk deer, kodwa kwi-70s ye-XX yekhulu yavalwa, kuba ngaphambili, ukuqokelela i-musk kwisilwanyana esivela kwi-gland, kwafuneka ibulawe. Kwakhona sisetyenziselwa i-musk yezilwanyana ezihlala eAfrika naseIndiya. Nangona kunjalo, ngoku kwihlabathi lanamhlanje kukho iifama ezizodwa apho izilwanyana ze-musk zikhulile kwaye i-musk exabisekileyo ikhutshwe nge-aneshesia yesikhashana, emva koko isilwanyana siyaqhubeka siphila siphile.
2. I Belladonna
Esi sityalo sinempepho eyamkelekileyo, kodwa ininzi yonke i-belladonna idonsela ingqalelo kwinto yokuba kwangexesha elidala kunye needemon kunye nabathakathi babenothando lokwenza uthando okanye basebenziselwe kwizifundo ezinjalo.
3. I-jetver jet
Ijeet ye-beaver iyimfihlo yeengqungquthela eziphambili ezikufutshane ne-anus kwiibhola. Isilwanyana sisebenzisa le mfihlelo ukubonisa ummandla. I-perfumers, le nto ifana ne-musk ngokwemigaqo yesenzo kwaye isetyenziselwa ukwenza i-elite perfumery.
4. I-dimethylsulfide
Le nkunkuma yokwenziwa komzimba ngokwawo inomfutho odibeneyo wesulfure kunye no-anyanisi, ukukhumbuza ukunambitheka kwesiqhamo se-durian, okanye ukuthunga njengeqabunga lehashe elifileyo. Kodwa inqaku elifanayo lafunyenwe kwi-geraniums kunye ne roses, ukuze i-dimethyl sulphide isetyenziswe ukuphucula iphunga leentyatyambo ze-roses kwioli ye-geranium okanye ukunika i-smell yolwandle kwi-perfume.
5. I-marijuana
Ngokwezinye i-perfumers, i-marijuana enomsindo ingongeza i-smell yehlathini kwimimoya kwaye inako ukunika uxolo loxolo.
6. Ioli ye Costusa
Iqumba leendleko lifana nelokhwe lezinja, kwaye libukhali kakhulu. Kungekudala nje esi sityalo sasingavumelekile ukuba sisetyenziswe kwi-perfumery, njengoko i-allergen eqinile. Ngaphambi kokuvalwa, ukususela kwiingcambu ezomileyo zesityalo, i-oyile yafunyanwa kwaye isetyenziswe ngokubanzi ekuveliseni iziqhumiso zamadoda.
Ngokudibanisa nezinye iziqholo zezilwanyana ezivela kwimvelaphi yezilwanyana, ioli ye-cassis yanika imimoya i-iris okanye i-watermelon ezingavuthiyo. Kwamanje i-perfume iyasebenzisa ukulungelelanisa ukutshintshwa kwale oli, kodwa ngoku akukho mntu uye wakwazi ukulinganisa nokuya ehambelana nenkohlakalo yemvelo ye-costus.
7. I-Ash
Abanye abaqhumisi bebenzisa umlotha ukwenza iziqhumiso zomntu ukunika ukunambitheka kobuthathaka kunye nokukhula komntu. Ngamanye amaxesha eli candelo litholakala kwiimpumlo zabasetyhini.
8. Iiphenols
I-Phenols ibamba iqela leengonyama ekuveliseni iziqhamo ezahlukeneyo. Izityalo ezininzi zivelisa ngokwemvelo ukuzikhusela ezinambuzane. Kodwa ngokuqhelekileyo basebenzisa i-phenols, ebizwa ngokuthi i-kreozolami, eyafunyanwa kwimveliso yelahle. Zininzi zeepenols ngokufanayo zifana nevumba lomntu okanye umchamo wehashe. Kodwa badlala indima ebalulekileyo ekuveliseni izicukutho zembala edibeneyo kunye nezinye izithako zokuqhumisa.
9. Aldehydes
Lezi zinto zenziwe ngokucoca ngempahla engaphezulu kweminyaka eyi-100, kodwa zafumana ukugqithiswa okhethekileyo emva kokubanjiswa kweChanel no-5 ka-Ernest Bo. Ezi zinto zinika iintlanzi kwimimoya, umthombo wangempela weemvakalelo.
10. Ambergris
Le nto ingabonakaliyo kunye nephunga elimnandi, elifihliweyo kwi-sperm whale ngokufihla emathunjini. Ngako oko, ukuba ulungele ukucoceka nge-perfume, i-amber kufuneka isetyenziswe emanzini atyuwa e-elwandle iminyaka emininzi, ekubeni isicatshulwa esitsha esicatshulwa kwilungu akufanelekanga ngenxa yephunga elizothe. Emva kokufunyanwa okufunekayo, i-ambergris ifumana iphunga elimnandi kwaye ilahlekelwe yiphunga elimnandi.
Le nkunkuma isetyenziselwa ukulungiswa kwemimoya. Emva kwayo yonke into, i-dose yakhe encinci ingakwazi ukugcina iphunga leqhumiso esikhumbeni somntu iintsuku eziliqela. Ngaphambili, lesi sithako sasiyingxenye phantse onke ama-flavour, namhlanje idibaniswa kuphela kwizinto ezinobuncwane ngenxa yexabiso eliphezulu.
11. Indole
Le nkunkuma enamandla, enesiphunga esiphuthumayo sefecal, ifumaneka kwiintyatyambo ezininzi ezimhlophe, ezinjengeeminduze okanye i-jasmine. Faka isicelo sokudala nokuphucula iziqholo eziqholiweyo. Ngokomzekelo, i-billet yokwenziwa kunye nephunga le-jasmine ayisoze iphunga i-jasmine ngokwenene, ide iqhube kule nto ecocekileyo.
12. I-Mercaptans
Le yile makhemikhali ephethe umthunzi ococekileyo nje ngomthunzi ococekileyo ofana nevumba elibi elalibolile. Zikwafumaneka kwakhona kwiigesi zomathumbu womntu. Nangona kunjalo, xa kusetshenziselwa kakuhle, i-mercaptans inikezela i-perfume into enomnandi okanye i-flavour flavor.
13. I-Scatole
Le khemikhali ibuye ibe nephunga elimnandi kakhulu, nokuba lihlanjululwa kakhulu. Ngeemeko zendalo, kwenzeka kwi-tar namalahle, kunye nexabiso elincinci kwimimbala ethile, umzekelo, i-orange okanye i-jasmine. Ngoko ke, ngokudibanisa ngokuchanekileyo kwama-aroma kunye namanani amancinci, i-scatol inako ukuguqula iphunga leqhumiso, libanike i-hue e-floral.
14. I-sperm kunye negazi
Ezi zithako ezinokumemeza kunye nezidumi kakhulu eziqhumayo zithe zatshitshisa ukusebenzisa i-scandalous perfume brand Etat Libre d'Orange. Ngoko, uchungechunge lweemimoya "Iimpawu ezimangalisayo" (iSecrétions Magnifiques) ziquka amanqaku endoda kunye negazi. Njengoko umdali u-Etienne de Swardt ngokwakhe uqobo lwakhe, wagqiba kwelokuba asebenzise ezi zivumba zangokwemvelo ukuphinda afune ukuzonwabisa kunye nokunuka kwimihlali yenyama.